SELF-EMPLOYED · INCORPORATED · COMMISSION · CONTRACT

Your accountant did their job. Now the bank is punishing you for it.

You wrote down your income legally to pay less tax. Then you applied for a mortgage, and the same lender that watched your deposits land every month told you you do not earn enough. That contradiction is the entire problem, and it is a documentation problem — not a you problem.

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Four routes, tried in this order

Nobody should be sent straight to a B lender because they are self-employed. The order matters — each step down costs money, so the cheaper routes get tested first.

ROUTE 1

Prime, using your line 150

Banks average your last two years of net income after write-offs. If that averaged figure supports the mortgage, you get the best rate available and nothing else needs discussing. Worth testing first every single time.

Fits: Two-plus years filed, and the after-write-off income is genuinely sufficient

ROUTE 2

Prime with income add-backs

Some lenders add back a portion of specific deductions — capital cost allowance, a home office, business use of vehicle — because those are paper expenses rather than cash out the door. Done properly this can lift usable income meaningfully without changing a thing about how you file.

Fits: Heavy legitimate write-offs on a profitable business

ROUTE 3

Stated income at prime

A handful of prime lenders allow a reasonable income to be stated for an established business, supported by bank deposits rather than tax returns. Requires strong credit and usually 20% down or more.

Fits: Two-plus years in business, strong credit, solid deposits

ROUTE 4

Alternative lenders on bank statements

Fits: Under two years filed, or income that tax returns genuinely understate

What to have ready

Having these together before the first conversation shortens the whole process, often by weeks.

Two things worth knowing early

Do not restructure your taxes for a mortgage without doing the arithmetic. Declaring an extra $40,000 to qualify can cost more in tax than the rate difference saves. Sometimes it is still right — but it should be a calculation, not a reflex.

Two full years is the threshold that changes everything. If you are at eighteen months, a short alternative term that ends after your second filed year is often the cheapest path overall.

Let's look at your actual numbers

Bring last year's return and a rough idea of your deposits. I’ll tell you which of the four routes fits, and if the honest answer is "wait six months", I will say that too.

Rate examples are being updated so every rate shows its APR, term and date.

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